JEFFREY J. PTAK MD FACS

             PLASTIC SURGERY

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS - Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup

The most beautiful cosmetic you can wear is a healthy skin.

That's why everything we develop is a true extension of skin care. Our makeup is not just a refinement of conventional makeup; it's a new technology. It's so effective it is recommended by plastic surgeons, dermatologists and skin care professionals. Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup

FOUR IN ONE
Our micronized mineral bases are concentrated pigment. (We use no fillers such as talc.) Because of this concentrated pigment, a minimum amount gives unsurpassed coverage and becomes a foundation, powder and concealer all in one. This concentrated pigment also gives high sunscreen protection without the need for synthetic ingredients.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and the FDA
SPF 20 PurePressed Bases & SPF 20 Amazing Bases - Formulated with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, the minerals give instant, broad-spectrum, chemical-free sun protection. They also have a Very Water Resistant rating. Please refer to our SPF Explained chapter.

FAST, WEIGHTLESS COVERAGE
Apply with a brush or a sponge for coverage that it would normally take three products to achieve. The result should look sheer and luminescent and feel weightless.

NON-COMEDOGENIC AND OIL-FREE
Under a microscope, the mineral crystals look like overlapping fish scales. These crystals form a filter that allows the free exchange of gasses. The minerals are non-comedogenic. We have many testimonials from acne patients claiming improvement in their skins since using our mineral makeup. The only oils we use in our formulas are in products where we want to help condition the skin - such as in our under-eye concealer and lip products.

MINIMUM ALLERGY RISK
Allergies and sensitivities are usually caused by substances that cause irritation to the skin. Reactions are particularly common in skins that have been compromised in some fashion through, for example, a weakened immune system, sun damage, chemical peels, laser resurfacing, etc.

Substances that most commonly cause these sensitivities are chemical preservatives, chemical dyes (usually labeled as FD&C), perfume and alcohol. Our makeup contains none of these sensitizers. In fact, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are anti-inflammatories and may help calm the skin.

All of our products have undergone sensitivity testing in an FDA-approved laboratory with zero sensitivity recorded.

SENSITIZERS
All our individual Material Safety Data Sheets of raw materials in our powder bases support that irritation, burning and stinging of the skin are not caused by our ingredients. Further, our processing does not result in any chemical change in the raw materials, so the reaction of the mixed ingredients remains the same as the individual ingredients. We have eliminated from our powders all perfume, chemical dyes and chemical preservatives. These are the top three sensitizers.

FD&C DYES
When the letters FD&C precede a color, it means that the color has been approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics. When D&C precede the color, it signifies that it can be used only in drugs or cosmetics. FD&C dyes are derived from petroleum or historically coal tar; some are also synthetic.

CONCENTRATED PIGMENT (COVERAGE)
The word "pigment" usually means a colored or white compound that is insoluble in a solvent. (The word "dye" generally refers to a chemical compound, most often of petroleum origin, which is soluble.) Our pigments are made from micronized minerals only.

The reason our powders work so well as a natural-looking beauty makeup and/or a camouflage is because the concentrated pigment not only masks color but interacts with light to create a soft-focus effect that creates an illusion of perfection. A small amount of the minerals will cover most types of redness including acne, rosacea and erythema (redness).

ADHERE
Because of the micronization process our mineral particles undergo, they bind together on application. When applied to a clean, moisturized skin the surface tension this creates overcomes gravity and holds the minerals tightly to the skin. The result is that they resist running, creasing and smearing and will only come off with a cleanser or our Magic Mitt. No special cleanser is required.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties and will help to calm erythema. Zinc oxide is also anti-microbial.

NO PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN TESTED ON ANIMALS


SPF and FDA

What is an SPF rating?
Sun Protection Factor (SPF) refers to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration's (FDA) approved techniques to assess the efficacy of a sunscreen in the Ultraviolet B (UVB) portion of the spectrum. An SPF rating does not measure Ultraviolet A (UVA) protection.

The textbook definition of SPF is the ratio of the time of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure necessary to produce minimally detectable erythema in sunscreen-protected skin to that time required to produce the erythema in unprotected skin. A typical testing protocol is as follows: skin in a non-skin-exposed area, such as the buttocks or lower back, is covered with light-proof adhesive foil; 1-cm areas of foil are removed sequentially so that each area receives a defined dose of UVB. The following day, the patient returns to be examined and areas are assessed for erythema (redness).

So, the SPF number gives you some idea of how long you can stay in the sun without burning. For example, if you normally burn in 10 minutes without sunscreen and you've applied a liberal dose of a sunscreen with an SPF number of 15, you should be protected from sunburn for 150 minutes. This does not mean that you are protected from other radiation damage. A broad spectrum sunscreen is required to give protection in the UVA range as well.

A Very Water Resistant rating is given if that same sunscreen still tests at the same SPF after being applied to human subjects and submerged in moving water for four 20-minute immersions. Our powders achieved an SPF 20 for the loose and pressed bases . They all received a Very Water Resistant rating. Under the new FDA monograph, it is no longer permissible to claim a "Water Proof" rating.

What's the difference between a sunscreen and a sunblock?
Under the new FDA monograph the word "Sunblock" is no longer allowed. The FDA is trying to eliminate any confusion the public may have or sense of false security. However, the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in our bases literally block UV rays by acting like tiny mirrors on the skin reflecting, refracting and absorbing rays. Most chemical sunscreens have highly efficient absorption capabilities through the UVB, partly the UVA, and in some instances infrared wavelengths. Once the chemicals have absorbed their limit, the sunscreen ceases to be effective. (Absorption is the process in which light is "lost" when it falls on a material. The light is not actually lost, but is converted into some other energy, such as heat.)

Dr. Nicholas J. Lowe and Dr. Josia Friedlander, both from the Skin Research Foundation of California, said in their recent book Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects: A new subclass of physical blockers, micronized reflecting powders, have more recently been made available from a variety of manufacturers. Unlike traditional physical blockers, micronized reflecting powders are less visible, yet provide broad-spectrum protection against UVR. These should prove useful in UVR-sensitive patients resistant to older physical blockers for cosmetic reasons. An additional benefit is that they do not cause photosensitization.

Not all mineral powders have an SPF rating. If they do, the SPF rating must be specified on the label.

How much sunscreen must be applied to get the protection advertised?
Much more than you think! At a recent conference of dermatologists, we learned that if you imagine your cupped hand mounded with shaving cream, that's the amount you must apply to achieve the SPF rating that the product claims. The FDA suggests: to get the maximum protection from your sunscreen, apply at least one large handful about 30 minutes before you go outside, and reapply after swimming, toweling dry, or participating in any vigorous activity that causes heavy perspiration.

Is there such a thing as a safe tan?
No! A tan is a sign of injury. It is the body's attempt to increase sun protection after the skin is already permanently damaged by an overdose of ultraviolet radiation! 80% of the visible signs of aging is due to sun exposure. And that means all sun exposure, because radiation is cumulative. Walking to the mailbox, getting in your car, and sitting by the window all count! Unprotected exposure to the sun is like sitting in a time machine on fast-forward.

Which are the most damaging rays?
UVB rays were once thought to be the culprits because they penetrate and affect the epidermis, but UVA rays are now known to be equally if not more damaging. According to Dr. Madhu A. Pathak at the Harvard Medical School: Many lines of evidence indicate that the primary biological actions of UVA radiation involve DNA damage.

UVB emissions from the sun undergo significant seasonal variations; the UVA emissions, however, do not appreciably change over the course of the year. The amount of solar UVA reaching the earth's surface is much greater than that of UVB. Also, UVA is transmitted by most window glass and many plastics that do not transmit UVB.

Always check to make sure your sunscreen protects from UVB and UVA, but be aware that regardless of the advertising no sunscreen product screens out all UV rays. The best defense is to try to minimize your exposure between the hours of 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. The effects of infrared rays (felt by the body as heat) are not fully known, but according to Drs. Lorraine and Albert Kligman from the University of Pennsylvania; they cannot be ignored in connection with photoaging.

What are some of the effects of sun exposure?
Lines, wrinkles and sagging are the direct result of sun damage to the underlying collagen and elastin fibers. Hyperpigmentation can be caused or exacerbated by sun irritation to the melanocytes, which in turn causes over-production of melanin, which is in fact the body's attempt to protect itself. Then add hypopigmented macules, telangiectasias and raised, roughed precancerous actinic keratoses, and the result of tanning is not a pretty sight.

Didn't I just hear that sunscreens aren't effective against melanoma?
No, Dr. Marianne Berwick only said that it is not safe to rely on sunscreens to prevent melanoma. This doesn't mean stop wearing them. Melanoma is now the 10th most common type of cancer in the U.S. The number of cases has risen dramatically, increasing to 42,000 a year. Most dermatologists feel that it takes over 20 years for melanoma to develop. Those with this cancer today had to have been exposed to the sun's damage two decades ago before effective sunscreens had been developed.

Dr. Roger Ceilley, president of the American Academy of Dermatology said: To be most effective, sun protection should begin in childhood and continue throughout life. Overwhelming evidence supports the beneficial effect of sunscreen usage, not only in preventing painful sunburn, but also in preventing photoaging and skin cancer, including melanoma. We believe it would be irresponsible to recommend that regular use of sunscreen be discontinued.

Can sun damage be reversed?
We are told that some of it can be if, and only if, the skin is always protected from the sun. The excellent skin care products on the market today can substantially aid the skin in reversing sun damage. But they do no good if they aren't combined with sun protection. Months of hard work can be undone in one morning working in the garden with no sunscreen, hat or gloves on.